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  #11  
Old 02-14-2009
whodo's Avatar
whodo whodo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hackerjoe View Post
Ok while ripping out the carpet today I looked at the Leveling system and found the 5amp fuse was ok and there was power to the controller.
The switch is bad because I jumped the wires in it and I got 2 yellow lights r/f & l/f only. What does that mean ?
The lights indicate which corner/s are low. Normally you will have two lights at most, but I have seen times when 3 lights would be on indicating 1 high corner compared to the other 3. If the level indicator is mounted correctly all lights will be out when the MH is level. Once all lights are out, use a carpenters level on the floor, counter top, & fridge and see how close to level it really is.

Quote:
Anyway when I tried to operate the jack fluid starting coming out of the L/F control ( it looks like it came out from just below the lever maybe just a seal ? )
The leak could be coming from the hyd line connection that is located directly below the levers themselves. The pressure input line comes in on the end of the control, the four lines parallel with the control levers are the outlet to jack lines, the 5th line slightly offset from other 4 is the pressure return line. Now it is also possible that you have right angle fittings with a jamb nut instead of straight connections. If it happens to be the seals on the levers control manifold, take it to a hyd. shop and have it rebuilt, it is cheaper than attempting to buy a new one.

Quote:
I found the pump underneath the RV just behind the drivers seat.. How do you fill the pump and what fluis will work, it looks like power steerinf fluid well at least wait got all over my shirt did ...
Also are you supposed to pull the jacks down to vertical or do the come down on their own ?
Monarch, Oildyne, & Stone reservoirs all have a breather/filler cap on top of tank. With the jacks in the up position, fluid level should be approx 1" below top of reservoir. Fill with Dextron automatic transmission fluid. Do not use hydraulic jack fluid it will destroy the seals!
The jacks will come down under pressure when lever is moved to down "vertical" position. The jacks will return to the up "horizontal" position when lever is moved to store position. The springs actually pull the jacks backup, the lever releases the hyd. pressure to return to the tank.

Quote:
Ok on another note the RV dealer I got this from left water in the system and the filter broke ( looks like an eggcorn ) they gave me a new one free of charge but its too long and wont fit. I dont really want to start trying to move lines around any suggestion or any idea where i can find a short female to male threaded type filter?
Thanks,
Joe
Try this link http://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/AB...ACartridge.htm
or try this link
http://www.excelwater.com/eng/b2c/ab...4461149 650ae
In either case you will have to click on the various links on the page to get info about each ones different filters that are available from them.

Ok I hope I answered all your questions, if not ask again and I will do better next time. There's probably a few things I forgot (CRS kicking in again).

On EDIT; I would recomend flushing the entire Hyd. system.

Last edited by whodo : 02-14-2009 at 09:13 PM.
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  #12  
Old 02-15-2009
stevesandidge stevesandidge is offline
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hey joe,
hwh sells a dye free hydraulic fluid that they recommend, dye free so if it leaks on a slide out it won't stain... in your application i would think regualar hydraulic fluid would work. i have not had to replace any on mine, but when i work on someone elses i make sure to use hwh fluid. i would use regular hyd fluid on my jacks, but if i had slideouts would use the hwh only.
now the filter problem.....it is my expieriance that thry change styles and shapes pretty regularly. find a replacement that will fit in your application/situation and install it. if they did not winterize, you may also have lines/faucets/traps cracked. check the water heater out also, as they will crack the tank if frozen.

as always though i will bow to whodo's advice/expieriance on these jacks!
__________________
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fix-it rv service, bluff city tn
USMC 1982-1994
37' holiday rambler imperial

Last edited by stevesandidge : 02-15-2009 at 06:28 AM.
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  #13  
Old 02-15-2009
hackerjoe hackerjoe is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Messages: 9
Default HWH Leveling System

Quote:
Originally Posted by whodo View Post
The lights indicate which corner/s are low. Normally you will have two lights at most, but I have seen times when 3 lights would be on indicating 1 high corner compared to the other 3. If the level indicator is mounted correctly all lights will be out when the MH is level. Once all lights are out, use a carpenters level on the floor, counter top, & fridge and see how close to level it really is.

The leak could be coming from the hyd line connection that is located directly below the levers themselves. The pressure input line comes in on the end of the control, the four lines parallel with the control levers are the outlet to jack lines, the 5th line slightly offset from other 4 is the pressure return line. Now it is also possible that you have right angle fittings with a jamb nut instead of straight connections. If it happens to be the seals on the levers control manifold, take it to a hyd. shop and have it rebuilt, it is cheaper than attempting to buy a new one.

Monarch, Oildyne, & Stone reservoirs all have a breather/filler cap on top of tank. With the jacks in the up position, fluid level should be approx 1" below top of reservoir. Fill with Dextron automatic transmission fluid. Do not use hydraulic jack fluid it will destroy the seals!
The jacks will come down under pressure when lever is moved to down "vertical" position. The jacks will return to the up "horizontal" position when lever is moved to store position. The springs actually pull the jacks backup, the lever releases the hyd. pressure to return to the tank.


Try this link http://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/AB...ACartridge.htm
or try this link
http://www.excelwater.com/eng/b2c/ab...4461149 650ae
In either case you will have to click on the various links on the page to get info about each ones different filters that are available from them.

Ok I hope I answered all your questions, if not ask again and I will do better next time. There's probably a few things I forgot (CRS kicking in again).

On EDIT; I would recomend flushing the entire Hyd. system.
Hi WhoDO,
That pretty much covered it all.... 1 questions however is what do cables with the nuts do that are on each jack I think theres more then 1 broken looks like due to rust..
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  #14  
Old 02-15-2009
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whodo whodo is offline
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"stevesandidge" hwh sells a dye free hydraulic fluid that they recommend, dye free so if it leaks on a slide out it won't stain... in your application i would think regualar hydraulic fluid would work.
DO NOT use this in the old systems, the seals are not designed for it. This is a 1980's system that was replaced with the "Integrated Control System" around 1991. ONLY use Dextron ATF in these old systems.

I have personally spoken to people at HWH that weren't around 20+ years ago and have no idea that the two are not compatible with each other.

Quote:
"hackerjoe" That pretty much covered it all.... 1 questions however is what do cables with the nuts do that are on each jack I think there's more then 1 broken looks like due to rust..
Being your jacks have a cable... they are 6000lb jacks.
The cable with the adjustment nuts is the actuator cable. Yes it is important, it prevents over-swing by the springs and must be adjusted in the up and down position to allow full travel, but not over travel.

One more item; the jacks need to be adjusted in the up position so that they will not interfere with any thing when fully extended in the up position. 19.5" of clearance when up. The jacks have a 7" stroke. Just because they came mounted on the MH doesn't mean they were installed correctly, I have seen this many times also.

One last item; You mentioned that the fluid looked like power steering fluid, an you have a leak, if it is not Dextron ATF, you will have to flush the system and very possibly replace a lot of seals. I have seen this many times. People think it is ok to use something else instead of reading the warning label that is on top of the reservoir.

ON EDIT: If you need to adjust the jacks or have any other questions, feel free to ask, I will do my best to walk you thru step by step.

Last edited by whodo : 02-15-2009 at 09:41 AM.
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  #15  
Old 02-15-2009
stevesandidge stevesandidge is offline
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"DO NOT use this in the old systems, the seals are not designed for it."

see joe, ya can learn sumtin every day! thanks who!

steve
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fix-it rv service, bluff city tn
USMC 1982-1994
37' holiday rambler imperial
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  #16  
Old 02-15-2009
hackerjoe hackerjoe is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Messages: 9
Default Leveling System

whodo,
The fluid was red ( like tranny fluid ) not clear sorry about that so thats good news as its cheaper then jack oil.... I guess if we end keeping the RV I'll look around and purchase a new switch & 4 cables w/ nuts 1 for each of the jacks... Oh an fix the control valve leak too
I worked on the plumbing a bit today & installed a steel braided hose from the pump screen to the inlet hose from the tank ( it actually tee's out then goes to the pump strainer. Maybe I'll take some pic's and post them sometime in the future...
I was in Lowes and talked to someone who RV'd and they suggest purchasing some 1/2 hose and some quick connect/diesconnect fittings. I really didn't want to start cutting water lines right now but may tackle changing some out when it warms up.
I'm almost finished with putting it back together, I ripped out all the flooring and replaced the carpet in bedroom the linoleum in kitchen area and then installed laminate from the kitchen to front seats and replace the front carpet.
I hope to be finished with it tomorrow and in the next week or 2 take it for an overnight test run somewhere with the Mrs.
Thanks for all your help,
Joe
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  #17  
Old 02-15-2009
stevesandidge stevesandidge is offline
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hey joe,
i've been using the quick connect water and air fittings for years now, they usually leak less than the ones with nuts you have to tighten up. i even carry em on the service truck, they are that handy.
sounds like you've got it under control, keep up the good work!
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fix-it rv service, bluff city tn
USMC 1982-1994
37' holiday rambler imperial
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  #18  
Old 02-16-2009
hackerjoe hackerjoe is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2009
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Default HWH Leveling system

I emailed HWH for some prices and this is what they sent back -----

RP6977 $12.49 --- switch
RAP7194 $35.78 EACH --- actuator cable kits (2)
R1217 $59.00 --- plunger for Valve body

Not cheap to repair
I may just install a cheaper switch & I only need 2 cable kits as the rear doesn't have them on them so I'm guessing they are 9000lb type.
Also I don't know if the plunger is bad I think it might be just a seal I couldn't exaclty see the leak as there was a lot of debri in there and it was getting dark. I may look again before ordering anything.
Thanks for all your help everyone

On a different note there was no chair behind the passenger seat does anyone have any idea's if theres an inexpensive alternative then buying a RV seat for the space ?
Thanks,
Joe
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  #19  
Old 02-16-2009
stevesandidge stevesandidge is offline
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who has a great list of surplus/parts houses suppliers at the top of the maint forum, check it out. some of the ol timers on here will most likely know of some as well.
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by an rver for the rver! rvia certfied tech
fix-it rv service, bluff city tn
USMC 1982-1994
37' holiday rambler imperial
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  #20  
Old 02-17-2009
hackerjoe hackerjoe is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2009
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Default Leveling system

Quote:
Originally Posted by stevesandidge View Post
who has a great list of surplus/parts houses suppliers at the top of the maint forum, check it out. some of the ol timers on here will most likely know of some as well.
I have looked at the list but I don't think it would be cost effective to ship anything to the east cost as it will probably be more to ship then the cost of the item
Thanks,
I've been looking for cheap seats as well but haven't found anything as of yet so I may go with some covers eventually.
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